Taco about a hot take.
Texas Monthly’s newly appointed taco editor has some spicy views on burritos: namely, that they don’t exist.
“I consider burritos to be tacos,” José R. Ralat tells The New Yorker. The Puerto Rico-born, New York-bred Texan of 10 years insists this opinion is not controversial, naming two Mexican books on burritos’ history that back up his argument.
“They explain that, yes, burritos are large, folded tortillas, but they are still tacos,” he says. “It’s not a new argument, it’s just not really discussed a lot.”
Burritos, he feels, are nothing more than oversize, unappealing tacos.
“I don’t understand why you would want to eat something that big in one sitting. That doesn’t make sense to me,” he says. “But it does make sense to me that they count as tacos.”
The real controversy, he feels, is whether to use corn tortillas or flour tortillas. For him, there is only one position.
“With Mexican cooking, everything eventually makes it into a tortilla,” he explains. “When we talk about tacos, we’re really talking about tortillas, particularly corn tortillas.”
Also contentious territory? The price of a taco. He declined to take a stance on that one, though.
“I blew $400 at a modern Mexican restaurant, and it was amazing!” he recalls, while noting that he appreciates that tacos are generally financially accessible otherwise.
Despite his taco title, his job will include the consumption and review of a wide array of Mexican food styles — and he foresees collaboration with Texas Monthly’s barbecue editor as well.
“I do plan on doing a taco of the week and a taco of the month, but Mexican food in Texas is evolving quickly, and so I’ll be covering Mexican pizza, and Mexican burgers, paletas …”
Burritos, though? “I’m a little scared of those,” he says.
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